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By Nick Engler

Kingdom furnishings. cabinets, cupboards, and cabinets

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All cuts are backed up well and hands can be clear of the bit. The block can be turned end for end and used for another pass, after which it can be trimmed shorter or discarded. Its only failing is that it is not as easy to keep snug to the fence as the wraparound design. The block should be long enough and wide enough to keep your hands well clear of the cutter. I generally start with the longest piece I can find so that I can cut the ends back once or twice for additional uses. Quick and dirty miter gauge For my own work I use the quick and dirty miter gauge most of the time.

Is nice for some work, such as raising panels with a vertical panel-raising bit (see p. 110). A typical shop-made fence is shown in the drawing on the facing page. The two parts ofthe fence may be glued together. If you have a biscuit joiner or a doweling jig, it will be easier to register the two pieces precisely to one another. Most general routing can be handled with three shop-made fences with progressively bigger openings-small, medium and large. Certain operations, such as running molding, require a fence with an opening that matches the profile of the bit-a zero-clearance fence.

It can be cut on the table saw, but it is thin enough to slip right under the fence of most saws. One solution to the problem is to cut a shallow saw kerf about '/ '6 in. from the bottom of an auxiliary fence and clamp it to the saw, then mn the edge of the laminate in the kerf. If you are working alone, you can simply lay the sheet face down on the floor and mark it for cutting 1 in. oversize. Place a scrap board between the laminate and the floor at the marked area and make four or five passes with a utility knife, applying heavy pressure.

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